One of the most inventive menus I’ve experienced lately is at Jatto Miami, the newest restaurant of Miami chef Henry Hane, the force behind B Bistro + Bakery that also recently opened its second outpost in Coconut Grove. The creative blending of cuisines from Peru with influences from Colombia, Spain and Thailand makes for dishes that are delicious and exciting but not precious. Teamed up with handsome presentations, and you have a winner.
In the heart of Wynwood, Jatto Miami offers a welcome, different décor from the usual Wynwood esthetic. Its accents are earthy tones, its materials natural, both indoors and outdoors which has an attractive garden like atmosphere with bar and loungey music that is at just the right level.
In another departure from usual menus, there are only two sections – starters and mains in one and desserts in another. Most of the dishes are starters, with just three entrees – the coconut miso snapper, steak au poivre, and a third which varies. They’re all made for sharing.
We had a tough time choosing. We began with patatas bravas, their take on a Spanish favorite. The potatoes were tender, the skin slightly crisp ($14). They were covered in a delectable house brava sauce with roasted garlic foam.
Next up was a unique version of a kind of salmon tartar with spicy maggi mayo, pickled cucumber and avocado, here on an arepa and topped with crispy rice noodles and togarashi spice. I’m not an arepa fan, but this really worked ($18).
The chef certainly worked his magic with Magic City mushrooms with a difficult to describe sauce (just to say it was inspired) and crunchy garlic salad ($16).
Our entrée was a signature dish and riff on a taco: coconut miso grouper. A large chunk of grouper topped with fried rice paper, lightly covered in the coconut miso sauce was accompanied by sazon sushi rice, salad and lettuce wraps.
Eat each ingredient separately or make yourself a taco ($48 for two). Next time I’d like to try the octopus chips, lobster causa, suckling pig BBq tips, and jerk chicken. Foie gras devotees will opt for the dippin dots – foie gras with seasonal fruit, savory pastry cream and sweet wine gelee.
Our dessert picks were a black forest oblea, thin wafers making a sandwich with filthy cherries, raspberry jam and whipped cream ($9). Our favorite was the white chocolate panacotta with macerated strawberries and the meringue ($12). My friend devoured it.
iJatto Miami has an original menu of signature cocktails with catchy, fun names like Shiso Horny – Grey Goose pear vodka, Chareau shiso, cucumber and Calamansi and Cartel Negroni made with coconut Cartel rum, roasted banana infused Cinzano 1757 sweet vermouth, and coco washed Campari.Cocktails are $14 to $15.
A glass of wine (5 ounce pour) starts at $12 a bottle at $48.
Jattö Miami, 223 NW 23rd Street, Wynwood. Dinner is served Monday to Sunday and brunch is offered on Sunday. Valet parking is $20 and there’s street parking.